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gigantes plaki (with pockets of feta)

January 6, 2023 by Kathryn Pauline 14 Comments

Let’s talk about baked butter beans! (AKA gigantes plaki in Greek). Oddly, they contain no butter whatsoever! This baked bean dish spans the eastern and western Mediterranean. And I have my own particular way of making it, involving nestling chunks of feta in the beans. They bake into melty pockets of cheese, and it’s just such a treat. But I often make it vegan and also have instructions for omitting the feta.

Jump to the recipe or read along for a few handy ingredient notes. Or watch this step-by-step video:

a note on beans for gigantes plaki

If you’re always in a hurry, don’t fret—I use canned butter beans instead of soaking and par-cooking dried ones. They don’t continue to soften once they bake with the tomato sauce, and so I’ve always had good luck using canned. Just make sure you look for a brand that doesn’t overcook them to begin with (you know how some brands are just absolute mush, and perfect for things like hummus? Avoid those here!).

If you can’t find canned butter beans, this recipe is also a wonderful way to cook cannellinis. If you’re starting from dried beans, it’s very important to soak them in lightly salted water overnight, and then cook them all the way through (stopping before they get mushy) before adding them to the tomatoes. Even though they bake for twenty-five more minutes, there is not enough moisture in the dish to cook them the rest of the way if they start out too al dente.

A note on feta (and how to make this recipe vegan)

Feta isn’t a necessary ingredient for delicious gigantes plaki, but it’s one of my favorite things to add. Instead of crumbling and sprinkling the feta, I like to cut it into big chunks and nestle them in with the beans, and then sprinkle a little on top. Just push the feta down, and then nudge the beans back over the tops. In the oven, the feta softens and melts a little with the tomato, turning into delightfully spreadable pockets of cheese.

This dish is wonderful served on thin slices of rye toast, but it’s also lovely served simply with basmati rice. Feel free to adjust the flavorings and seasonings to your preference.

It’s easy to veganize it by using vegan feta, or leaving out the feta altogether. If you do leave the feta out, add a good amount of extra olive oil. I make it this way all the time with about 1/4 cup more olive oil, and it’s delicious.

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gigantes plaki with pockets of feta

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  • Prep Time: 20 minutes
  • Total Time: 1 hour 15 minutes
  • Yield: serves 6 as a main, or more as a side

Ingredients

  • 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 onion (150-175g), chopped
  • 2–3 cloves garlic (10-15g), crushed through a press
  • 2 carrots (140g), medium diced
  • Salt
  • 1 teaspoon (1g) dried oregano
  • 2 teaspoons (2g) dried thyme
  • 1/4 teaspoon (0.5g) crushed red pepper (or more to taste)
  • 1/2 teaspoon (1g) black pepper
  • Two 14-ounce cans (2 400g cans) diced tomato
  • 1 teaspoon (3g) sugar
  • Three 14-ounce cans (3 400g cans) of butter beans*, strained and rinsed
  • 1/4 cup (12g) minced fresh dill fronds**
  • 3/4 cup (40g) minced fresh parsley leaves (reserve some for garnish)
  • 7 ounces feta*** (200g), cut into about 10-12 large cubes

Instructions

  1. Heat a large oven-proof 10 to 12” steep-sided skillet over medium heat for a few minutes, then add the olive oil, followed by the onion, garlic, carrots, and about 1/4 teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring occasionally for 10 to 15 minutes, until the onions and carrots soften quite a bit (reduce to low if they start to caramelize).
  2. Add the oregano, thyme, crushed red pepper, black pepper, diced tomatoes, and sugar, and bring up to a simmer. Once simmering, reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 20-25 minutes, just until it forms a very thick sauce.
  3. Preheat the oven to 425° F (218° C) convection while the sauce is simmering.
  4. Taste the sauce once it’s done. Adjust the seasoning, stir in the butter beans, and remove from heat. Add most of the dill and parsley (reserve a couple pinches for garnish). Distribute all but 1 of the feta cubes evenly over the surface of the beans. Gently push down the feta cubes so that they nestle among the beans. Gently nudge some of the beans back over feta cubes to make sure they’re not showing (it’s like planting tulip bulbs). Crumble the remaining feta on top, and bake for about 25 minutes, just until the exposed feta browns, and the whole thing is heated through. Garnish with the reserved parsley, and serve.

Notes

* If you can’t find butter beans, you can us cannellini instead. They’re much smaller, but they will absolutely work in a pinch.

** Feel free to use a much smaller amount of dried dill (but make sure to use fresh parsley).

*** Feel free to omit the feta and mix in about 1/4 cup of extra olive oil in its place.

To make ahead: 1 or 2 days ahead of time, make the sauce, wash and mince the herbs (dry them very well first), and cut the feta into cubes. You can even strain and rinse the beans and leave them in the fridge, if you’d like to. Once you’re ready to bake, heat the sauce back up in the pan you’re going to bake it in (you might need to add 1-2 tablespoons of water). Once it’s warmed through, add the butter beans, dill, and parsley, stir together, and nestle in the feta cubes. Bake and garnish as usual.

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Filed Under: dinner, every recipe, gluten free, lunch, main courses, side dishes, vegetarian, weeknight Tagged With: beans, carrots, dill, fall, feta, herbs, middle eastern, parsley, spring, tomato, winter

yellow curry powder + recipes

January 1, 2023 by Kathryn Pauline 10 Comments

This yellow curry powder recipe is primarily made up of turmeric, cumin, coriander, and fenugreek, with some warm and spicy background notes. This blend works well raw, but tempering in oil or roasting in a pan for 1 minute deepens its flavor. You can use this blend in a number of different dishes—check out the archives for a full list, but here are a few of my favorites:

  • Lemony Red Lentil Soup
  • Chicken Curry
  • vegan biryani (Assyrian)
  • mango fish tacos
  • amba slaw
  • easiest chicken biryani
  • Assyrian potato stew | shirw’it kirtopie
  • sheet pan chicken curry
  • sheet pan kirtopie | sheet pan potato curry
  • a vegetarian meze dinner party

Feel free to follow along with the recipe at the end of this post, or use this video if you’re more of a visual person:

History of curry powder

You’ll find yellow curry powder in a lot of Assyrian and Iraqi dishes. It’s become an important part of our cuisine in recent centuries, and it’s in everything from biryani to amba to masgouf. And it feels essential to the food that makes me think of home cooking. So many family recipes begin with a spoonful or two of Madras curry powder. But it’s important to note that the whole idea of curry actually has a history of colonialism and a connection to our shared experience with the Indian subcontinent (check out articles by Sucharita Kanjilal, Naben Ruthnum, and Little Global Chefs for more information and context). And while it’s not strictly an “authentic” Middle Eastern ingredient (nor an authentic Indian one), it’s certainly become a part of Iraqi and Assyrian cuisines.

What is authenticity anyway? Things are always changing. Some new things come from beautiful instances of cultural sharing. And some new things happen from violence and conquest. But in either case we’re left with whatever remains. When we take stock, maybe it’s just important that we remember and acknowledge our history and our circumstances, while working toward an equitable future.

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Yellow Curry Powder + recipes

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  • Total Time: 5 minutes
  • Yield: about 3/4 cup

Ingredients

  • 2 tablespoons ground turmeric
  • 2 tablespoons ground cumin
  • 2 tablespoons ground coriander
  • 2 tablespoons ground fenugreek seeds
  • 2 teaspoons ground ginger
  • 2 teaspoons ground mustard
  • 2 teaspoons ground curry leaves (optional)
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cardamom *
  • 1 teaspoon ground black pepper
  • 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 1/2 to 1 teaspoon ground chili

Instructions

  1. Prep any whole spices by grinding them and then measuring them. Use a very clean coffee grinder, spice grinder, or mortar and pestle.
  2. Combine all ingredients and store in a sealed glass container for 6 months to a year.

Notes

* If you’re using whole pods, use green cardamom, rather than black, and discard the shells before grinding the seeds. If you’re using ground spices, green cardamom is the same thing as a standard shaker of cardamom you’ll find in the supermarket.

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Filed Under: every recipe, specialty ingredients Tagged With: cardamom, cinnamon, cumin, ginger, middle eastern, turmeric

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Welcome! I’m Kathryn Pauline, cookbook author, recipe developer, and photographer.

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