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chocolate féve and pine nut cookies

February 7, 2018 by Kathryn Pauline 4 Comments

I feel like there are essentially two kinds of Valentine’s Day desserts. There are the super romantic desserts, usually with a little bit of retro charm, which you enjoy with your sweetheart at the end of a candlelit meal—you know, molten chocolate cake, chocolate covered strawberries, sacher torte, and the like. And then there are those more platonic Valentine’s Day desserts that you bring to work and deliver to friends. You know, the kind of things you’d bring to school as a kid, when you’d deliver Valentine’s cards and sweets to everyone, no exceptions—chocolate buttercream brownies with pink and white sprinkles, linzer cookies with their signature jam-drop heart silhouette, and of course chocolate chip cookies.

Everyone in your life deserves one of these chocolate féve and pine nut cookies (adapted from David Leite’s brilliant recipe), but that doesn’t take away from their specialness. Their combined weight of premium chocolate and pine nuts exceeds one pound, they bake up into dessert-plate-sized cookies, and they sparkle with gorgeous flaky sea salt. Moreover, the dough rests overnight, which results in the most perfectly chewy-crunchy texture (I suspect this is the reason that store-bought cookie dough is always surprisingly delicious). So while you can certainly hand these out around the office next week, they’re also worthy of a romantic dinner with your special someone.

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chocolate féve and pine nut cookies

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adapted from David Leite’s perfect [he is not joking around] chocolate chip cookies

  • Prep Time: 30 minutes
  • Total Time: at least 14 hours
  • Yield: about 20 giant cookies

Ingredients

  • 3 2/3 cups [480 g] all purpose flour
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
  • 2 1/2 sticks [284 g] cool room temperature butter
  • 1 1/3 cup + 2 Tbsp [284 g] brown sugar
  • 1 cup + 2 Tbsp [227 g] granulated sugar
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 2 large eggs
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
  • 10.5 oz [300 g] chocolate féves (or substitute chocolate chips)
  • 1 1/2 cup [200 g] pine nuts
  • flaky sea salt for sprinkling (or substitute kosher salt)

Instructions

  1. Sift or whisk together the flour, baking soda, and baking powder, and set aside for later.
  2. Set your stand mixer up with a paddle attachment (or feel free to use a hand mixer, or simply a sturdy whisk), and beat the butter, sugar, brown sugar, and salt together until they’re light and fluffy (this will take about 3 to 5 minutes).
  3. Add one of the eggs to the creamed butter/sugar mixture and beat together until it’s completely incorporated. Scrape up the bottom and scrape down the sides of the bowl, and add the other egg and the vanilla. Beat together until it’s completely incorporated.
  4. Add the flour mixture and stir together at a low speed, just until it’s almost completely combined. Stir in the chocolate féves and pine nuts by hand until they’re somewhat evenly distributed.
  5. Roll the dough into 90 gram balls. If there are any féves sticking out, push them back in.* Chill the dough balls in the refrigerator overnight, for at least 12 hours (up to 3 days).**
  6. The next day, preheat the oven to 350° F.
  7. Place 6 cookies on a parchment-lined sheet pan, and be sure to leave enough room between them so they can spread (and possibly shift around). Sprinkle them with flaky sea salt.***
  8. Bake for about 20 minutes; take them out of the oven once they’ve flattened out and turned a nice golden brown color. They should be gooey on the inside and crispy around the edges.
  9. Slide them, parchment and all, off the sheet pan, and let them cool this way. Bake the remaining dough balls, and freeze however many you don’t plan to bake.

Notes

* I don’t bother fiddling with them to make sure they look pretty, because I like the eclectic look when they all turn out different (and I love when they end up with hidden, gooey chocolate pockets), but if you want them to get lots of pretty, visible pools of chocolate, take Leite’s advice and make sure some of the féves are flat and facing up instead of on their sides or tucked in.

** I guess you can skip the resting step, but trust me—you will not regret waiting. You could also wait until the next day to roll the dough into balls, especially if the dough got a little too warm and difficult to work with.

*** If you want to get a slightly more even distribution of salt, feel free to sprinkle them about halfway through baking, just as they’ve started to flatten out.

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Filed Under: every recipe, sweets Tagged With: chocolate, cookies and bars, nuts

orange blossom marmalade

February 4, 2018 by Kathryn Pauline 6 Comments

This is not a post for the kind of person with an orchard of citrus trees in their back yard, and a beautiful pantry full of mason jars with preserved fruits and vegetables in their kitchen (you know, the kind of person who goes on the air with The Splendid Table to ask what they should do with the buckets of grapefruits they’ve been burdened with). Marmalade is traditionally a means of putting up a surplus of oranges, and so most recipes for marmalade yield multiple half pint jars, which can be processed in boiling water and kept at room temperature. But when I make marmalade, I’m not looking for a way to preserve buckets of oranges; I just want a little half-pint jar that will last a few weeks in the refrigerator.

So the recipe below is for a small batch, but it’s not just any orange marmalade; it’s an orange blossom marmalade, and it’s made with clementines instead of naval oranges. Orange blossom water gives it an extra-special floral aroma, and clementines make for a less bitter marmalade, since they have a much thinner pith. This marmalade is totally dreamy, the way imaginary orange marmalade tasted on invisible toast when you were a little kid throwing tea parties.

Anissa Helou has a recipe for jam made from the petals of orange blossoms in her book of sweets, but I’ve never actually gotten my hands on orange blossoms themselves, so the distilled flavor of orange blossom water will have to do (I’m going to give her recipe a try next time I’m visiting my grandmother, who has an orange tree that doesn’t usually get a lot of fruit, but consistently blossoms once a year).

But before I get to the recipe, I should say a few words on jam making in general. The ideal setting temperature for most jams is 220° F. This means that enough water has evaporated, so that it will set up firmly. You’ll notice that I have you cook your marmalade just a couple degrees beyond 220, and that’s because you’re going to add more liquid back in when you add the orange blossom water. Why not add the orange blossom water at the beginning of the cooking process, and just cook it to the proper jam-setting temperature? Because a lot of the orange blossom aroma would be lost along the way. By cooking out a little extra liquid, and then adding it back in at the end, your jam will set correctly, and you’ll get lots of unbelievable orange blossom flavor.

If you don’t have a thermometer, you can test it the old fashioned way. Once your jam sets to your liking, continue to cook it for one or two more minutes before adding the orange blossom water, otherwise it will be too watery. This is a less surefire method, but it will work more or less.

If all this talk of temperature and setting freaks you out, but you still want some orange blossom marmalade, feel free to mix a tablespoon of orange blossom water into a jar of store-bought marmalade. One measly tablespoon won’t water it down too much (though it will be a little on the runny side), but it will add a ton of orange blossom flavor.

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orange blossom marmalade

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  • Yield: 1 half-pint jar

Ingredients

  • 180 grams clementines (2 large or 3 small clementines)
  • 45 grams lemon (about 1/2 of 1 lemon)
  • 180 grams orange or clementine juice (3/4 cup + 1 tablespoon)
  • 165 grams sugar (3/4 cup)
  • 1 pinch of salt
  • 28 grams orange blossom water (2 tablespoons)

Instructions

  1. Scrub the clementines and lemon very well with a produce wash or vinegar, and rinse well with water.
  2. Thinly slice the clementines and half lemon (peels and all) and place the slices (and any running juices) in a small saucepan, discarding any bits of stem or seed.
  3. Add the juice, sugar, and salt to the slices, place the saucepan over medium-high heat, and bring to a boil. Use an instant-read or candy thermometer to monitor the temperature. Remove the marmalade from heat when it reaches 223° F (about 10 minutes)*, and immediately stir in the orange blossom water.
  4. Pour into a half-pint mason jar (or another storage container). Let it cool at room temperature for about 20 minutes, then cover it and let it chill in the fridge for an hour or two before serving. The marmalade should keep in the refrigerator for a few weeks.

Notes

* There’s a note above about how to test for doneness without a thermometer.

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Filed Under: breakfast, dairy free, every recipe, gluten free, vegan, vegetarian Tagged With: jams and compotes, lemon, orange, orange blossom water, spring, winter

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