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s’mores baklava

July 31, 2019 by Kathryn Pauline 2 Comments

My cousin Heather is getting married next week! I live on the other side of the world and can’t make it to the wedding, so this summer when I was visiting Chicago, I baked some s’mores baklava (/baklawa) and stashed a bunch in my parents’ freezer for the shower. Heather and her fiancé are super outdoorsy and go on so many amazing backpacking trips, and we grew up with our grandmother’s cardamom baklawa, so this felt like a total Heather dessert. Wishing H&C congratulations and a lifetime of beautiful views, good food, and love ❤️

Before I get to the recipe, a few notes on how I came up with it and why I love it. The thing is, sometimes when you combine features of two foods, you end up losing something along the way, but I didn’t want to settle for anything less than 100% s’mores and 100% baklava, so this recipe doesn’t shy away from the essential features of either. It’s soaked in a toasted marshmallow syrup, filled with crumbled pecans, graham crackers, milk chocolate, and more toasted marshmallow, and topped with all the s’mores things.

The s’mores of my childhood feature milk chocolate, toasted marshmallows, and honey graham crackers. I’ve never really been a fan of those fancy adaptations with 90% cocoa fleur-de-sel-flecked chocolate and homemade graham crackers. When it comes to s’mores flavors, I only have eyes for classic.

And it might not surprise you that I have a few dealbreakers when it comes to baklava as well. It absolutely must have crisp filo layers, which are soaked in a rich syrup—the syrup has to have just enough water to penetrate every single layer, but not so much that they become soggy. And the syrup must be there not only to sweeten things, but to hold everything together and give it a wonderfully sticky texture. If the syrup is just decorative, if it just sits on top and soaks into the outermost layer, or if it doesn’t have a structural purpose, it’s not really doing its job. And while we’re at it, it has got to have some sort of nut in the filling.

This recipe has the best of both worlds in every bite—those memories of the big plates of cardamom baklawa my grandmother always had on her kitchen counter, as well as the nostalgia of camping trips with my family.

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s’mores baklava

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  • Prep Time: about 40 minutes
  • Total Time: about 3 1/2 hours
  • Yield: about 6 dozen pieces

Ingredients

for the toasted marshmallows:

  • One 10 oz bag mini marshmallows (280g) (it will end up split between the filling, syrup, and topping)

for the marshmallow syrup:

  • 2 cups granulated sugar (400g)
  • 1 1/4 cup water (295g)
  • Pinch salt
  • 1/2 of the tray of broiled marshmallows (above)

for the baklava:

  • Butter for greasing the pan
  • 2 1/3 cups pecans (200g)
  • 17 honey graham crackers, broken into pieces (240g)
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt (2.5g)
  • 1/2 of the tray of broiled marshmallows (above)
  • 1 heaping cup milk chocolate chunks/chips for the filling (170g)
  • 16 oz filo dough sheets (454g), thawed at room temperature for 4 hours
  • 6.25 ounces hot melted clarified butter (177 grams, or 3/4 cup + 2 T by volume)*
  • toasted marshmallow syrup (above)

for decorating:

  • 1 cup milk chocolate chunks/chips for the topping (150g)
  • The 1/2 cup of flame-toasted marshmallows (above)
  • 1 graham cracker, crumbled

Instructions

  1. For the toasted marshmallows: For the toasted marshmallows: Set the oven to broil.
  2. While you wait on it to heat, set aside a handful of the mini marshmallows for the topping, about 1/2 cup (25g). Place them on a small sheet pan (on top of a towel) and carefully caramelize them with a culinary torch to give them a little char (if you don’t have a culinary torch, you can put them on a skewer and carefully roast them over a gas stove, or simply use them untoasted). Set aside for decorating later.
  3. Line a large sheet pan with parchment and spray with cooking spray. Spread out the rest of the mini marshmallows into a single layer (almost the entire bag, minus the 1/2 cup for the topping). Place under the broiler and toast until golden brown all over, charred in many spots, and slightly smoking (this might only take 30 seconds, so watch them like a hawk, and move the pan around a bit if your broiler doesn’t toast evenly).
  4. Use a butter knife to score the sheet pan of marshmallows down the center, to remind yourself to divide them in half (half for the syrup, and half for the filling). Let them cool completely before scraping them up.
  5. For the marshmallow syrup: Place the sugar in a small saucepan, cover it with the water, and bring to a boil over high heat, gently stirring it occasionally. Once it comes to a full boil, let it go for 3 minutes, then reduce to medium-low, and add 1/2 of the broiled marshmallows (use a greased spatula to scrape them up). Stir until the marshmallow dissolves (you can increase the heat, but do not let it boil over), and remove the syrup from heat as soon as they dissolve.
  6. Set aside while you make the baklava.
  7. For the baklava: Set the oven to 350°F/177°C convection**, and grease a rimmed sheet pan.
  8. Place the pecans, graham crackers, and salt in a food processor, and pulse a few times, until they’re coarsely ground. Remove half of the graham/pecan mixture to a mixing bowl.
  9. Add 1/2 of the remaining broiled marshmallows to the food processor with some of the graham/pecan mixture. Run until it’s evenly worked in and no longer clinging to the blade (don’t pulse, just let it run for about 15-30 seconds at a time, so it can fling the gooey marshmallow off the blades and work it in). Add the next 1/2 of the broiled marshmallows, and run to distribute once again. Remove to the mixing bowl and mix everything together with the 1 heaping cup (170g) chocolate chips.
  10. Make sure you have all your ingredients (including the clarified butter) ready before you open the filo dough. Place half of the filo dough on the sheet pan, spread the filling evenly over it, and place the rest of the filo dough on top of the filling.
  11. Cut the baklava into diamonds by slicing straight across in the short direction, then diagonally (see photos in my original baklawa/baklava post). It’s best to work with a very sharp knife. It’s alright if a few of the pieces go a little awry, but you want everything to stay pretty lined up.
  12. Slowly and evenly drizzle the hot clarified butter over the sliced baklava.
  13. Bake for about 25 minutes, until it has lightly browned.
  14. A few minutes before the baklava is ready to come out of the oven, slightly warm the syrup on the stove so it’s not gloopy when you pour it.
  15. As soon as the baklava comes out of the oven, slowly pour the warm marshmallow syrup over the surface, allowing it to sink in a bit as you pour it. If any syrup runs off to the side (if your tray is a little roomy), feel free to slightly tilt the tray and spoon it back over the center (don’t worry if it looks messy).
  16. Let it sit until it comes to room temperature, at least 2 hours.
  17. To decorate: Temper the 1 cup (150g) chocolate (gradually melt 1/2 cup of chocolate chips in the microwave, 15-30 seconds at a time, stirring between each zap. Once melted, add the other 1/2 cup, and stir until they melt without microwaving—or microwave 5 seconds at a time if they don’t melt after a couple minutes).
  18. Drizzle the chocolate over the room temperature baklava (with a piping bag or spoon), and decorate with the toasted marshmallows and crumbled graham crackers.
  19. Wait until the chocolate hardens. Cut through the lines you made before baking, and then serve. Store at room temperature for 3 days, or the freezer for longer. It’s even better the next day.

Notes

* Clarified butter is really easy to make, and I’ve got a video and recipe here. This amount of clarified butter comes from about 8 ounces / 227 grams sweet cream butter (which is conveniently the amount in my
clarified butter recipe).

** If you don’t have convection, no worries—you might need to slightly increase the temperature and/or bake it for slightly longer. If your convection fan is particularly strong, you might want to bake without convection, otherwise the pieces of filo might go flying. I’ve only had this problem baking in commercial kitchens, and most home ovens won’t actually blow things around.

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Filed Under: every recipe, sweets Tagged With: baklawa, chocolate, clarified butter, middle eastern, nuts, s'mores

knife skills: how to slice

July 28, 2019 by Kathryn Pauline 5 Comments

A couple weeks ago, I posted a video of myself cooking my aunt Masy’s chipteh to my Instagram stories, and I got so many unexpected messages on a totally unrelated subject: my knife skills! Over a hundred readers replied saying that they’ve had a really hard time learning how to properly hold a knife, slice, chop, etc., and even a few food bloggers whose work I admire expressed insecurity about their own knife skills.

This bummed me out, because you absolutely don’t need knife skills to be an amazing cook. You can learn to slice and dice better than anyone else, but if you don’t cook from the heart, those knife skills will only be good for showing off. But that being said, it is really nice to be able to safely and efficiently prep a ton of ingredients. It cuts down on time and it makes cooking much safer. So if honing your knife skills is something you want to do, I say go for it!

A little background, so you know where I’m coming from: I started cooking when I was a little kid, and then started taking it more seriously when I was in college. When I was twenty, I was determined to learn how to guide the knife properly, but all the videos I watched always just said “guide the knife with your non dominant hand’s knuckles and keep your fingers tucked in,” and didn’t really explain what any of that meant, or how to do that successfully. I tried mimicking the motions I saw on cooking shows, but it felt so weird and unnatural, and they always moved a little too quickly to really break things down into a series of small motions. I pretty much gave up for the rest of my twenties, and prepped ingredients with my own weird, slow, and slightly unsafe chopping technique.

Everything changed when I worked in a restaurant last year. Having to prep tons of veggies every day gave me the opportunity (and the necessity) to really dedicate time to practicing and improving. Practice, indeed, makes perfect. But at the same time, I never went to culinary school or anything, and maybe a culinary school instructor wouldn’t be so impressed (honestly, I have no idea). But the technique in this post is similar to most ones that I’ve seen, it works for me, and I have never ever cut myself this way. In the videos below, I’ve tried to really break things down into the smallest of parts, and I tried to use really specific language to describe the motions. At the end of the day, you should probably watch multiple videos and read multiple how-tos, but I hope mine at least illuminates part of the picture, ideally the part that you’ve been missing. Everything will click into place eventually, and after a while, it’ll be totally second nature. You got this!

But before we get to technique and knife skills, here’s absolutely everything you need to know:

1) Find a good knife that will hold its edge

There are a lot of poorly made knives out there. Some are even super expensive! While more expensive forged knives are generally better than less expensive stamped ones, it’s really impossible to make any sweeping generalizations, and you’ve just got to look for a quality one that’s in your budget. Also remember that it’s much better to find one really good knife, instead of having a whole block of mediocre ones. Don’t settle for a big block of fancy brand name disappointing stamped knives—spend that money on one really good one that you’ll use every single day.

My two top picks (totally not sponsored, by the way) are at opposite ends of the price spectrum. I use them every day, have had them for years, and absolutely love them:

Budget buy: victorinox fibrox pro

This Victorinox knife is under $35 and works super duper well. It’s an inexpensive stamped knife (rather than forged), which typically means it won’t hold its edge very well, but for some reason Victorinox has totally cracked the code and figured out a way to make an amazing stamped knife. It’s much lighter weight than a more expensive forged knife, which can be a good thing when you want to move super quickly, like thinly slicing a bunch of russet potatoes. Plus, if you’re just starting out, that light weight feeling can make slicing and chopping feel much less intimidating. All you need is one of these (plus the Victorinox paring knife) and you can do anything.

Splurge: wusthof classic

This Wusthof knife is more like $150 (unless you find it on sale), but it’s worth every penny. To be honest, I never ever would have treated myself to this, but my father-in-law did a ton of research to find the best of the best, and generously gifted this one to me, and it’s become one of my favorite things ever. It’s a lot heavier than my Victorinox, which is nice when you need to cut something harder like sweet potato or squash. But it’s my go-to for pretty much everything, and I’ve given this model as a gift to several friends and family. You can cook very happily with an inexpensive Victorinox, but if you want to spend more money, or if you’re looking for a luxurious gift for someone, this knife is a real treat.

2) Keep your knife sharp and honed

Sharp knives don’t need to be forced through the food, so if you use a sharp knife along with proper knife skills, you’ll be less likely to cut yourself.

Prevent it from dulling prematurely

  1. Don’t ever put it in the dishwasher.
  2. Don’t ever drop it.
  3. Don’t let it plonk around in the sink. Wash it right away, or leave it somewhere safe off to the side to be washed later.
  4. Store it properly, with a knife strip, countertop block, or in-drawer block. If you’re using a magnetic knife strip, always put your knife back by letting the spine hit the magnet first, then gently letting the side fall flat.
  5. Use a wood or plastic cutting board, never ever cut on glass, marble, steel, or anything else hard. The composite wood boards I’m using in these videos will dull your blade a little more quickly than a nice solid wood board, but they’re fine if you’re short on space and need something super slim.
  6. Keep a mediocre knife around for when you have to cut a bunch of brownies in a tin, or when you have to cut super gritty produce before washing it. Don’t use your good knife for gritty tasks.

Sharpen it occasionally

  • Why sharpen? Your knife’s edge will literally start to wear away after months of use (you can’t see it with the naked eye, but you’ll be able to feel it when you cut). The sharp part dulls and disappears gradually after a lot of use. Sharpening creates a new razor-sharp edge by whitling some of the steel away.
  • When to sharpen: Sharpen them once every year if you cook often, or once every two years if you cook occasionally (I cook for hours every day, so I sharpen mine more frequently—once every few months). Don’t sharpen them too often (it shouldn’t be a weekly thing, unless you’re a professional chef or something).
  • How to sharpen: Learn how to use a whetstone (the rectangular thing pictured above), or take them to a professional, but don’t use one of those “at home sharpener machines,” which aren’t good for your knife. If you only cook once every day or two (and have a good knife that you take care of), you’ll only need to sharpen them every year or so, so taking them to a professional is way easier than learning to use a whetstone.

Hone it often

  • Why hone? Your knife’s edge gets pushed out of whack every time you use it. In other words, the edge starts to waver a teeny bit in the wrong direction, even when it’s still super sharp (note: this is totally different than when you drop your knife and the tip goes super wonky—that’s something only a professional can fix). So even though your knife is still sharp, the out-of-whack edge will make it feel as if it’s dull. Honing gently nudges the edge back into center, which means you’ll be cutting right down the middle with a razor sharp edge, instead of struggling to push a slightly curved edge through your food.
  • But it’s important to note: if your knife has truly dulled, no amount of honing will make it sharper, and you just need to get it sharpened (again, whetstone or professional).
  • When to hone: Honing should be done just about every day that you cook, but it’s super easy.
  • How to hone: Hold your honing steel in your non-dominant hand, and your knife in your dominant hand. Point the honing steel down toward the counter, angled slightly away from you. Hold your knife so the blade is facing the counter, and hold its side right up against the honing steel. Pretend you’re slicing very thin pieces of lunch meat off of the honing steel. You don’t want your blade to cut into the honing steel, you just want the side of the blade to graze it. Do this 3 times on one side of the knife, then 3 times on the other, then 2 times on each, then 1. And you’re done!

3) Always cut away from your hand—Never toward your hand.

It’s pretty self explanatory, but if you take this rule seriously, you will never cut yourself. It’s serious enough to get its own fancy heading and everything!

4) Use proper knife skills

  1. Always make sure your food is steady, so it doesn’t slip away from you. Cut it in half so it has flat sides, and then place it flat-side-down so it’s maximally stable.
  2. Hold the knife firmly in your dominant hand (DH).
  3. Keep your non-dominant hand’s (NDH’s) fingers and thumb tucked in. Do not expose or untuck your finger tips—they will want to creep out in the beginning, but do not let them. Use your NDH’s curled-under finger tips to hold the food in place.
  4. Rest the side/top of the knife a little under your knuckles, and always let that safe part of the knife (the top and flat side) hit them on the knife’s way up. This will prevent the blade from slicing your knuckles on its way back down. Absolutely do not raise the knife above your knuckles.
  5. Move your NDH’s knuckles down the food, using them as a guide to let the knife travel across the food. Do not uncurl your fingers as you move your knuckles down the length of the food, and continue letting the dull spine of the knife contact your knuckles on its way up to make sure you don’t accidentally slice toward your hand, or overshoot them.
  6. It’s better to go slowly the right way than quickly the wrong way. Don’t rush, and practice, practice, practice!
  7. Here’s an exercise: thinly slice a potato! Cut the potato in half along its length. Place one half flat-side down. Get in position with your NDH’s knuckles and the knife in your DH. Slice off one sliver from the end, and then move your knuckles back a tiny bit so you expose more of the potato. Bring the knife up so that its spine slightly hits your knuckles in their new position, and then bring it back down so it slices another little bit off the potato. Repeat until the whole potato is sliced.

Filed Under: cooking guides

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Welcome! I’m Kathryn Pauline, cookbook author, recipe developer, and photographer.

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