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Black lives matter (+ cherry chocolate sumac skillet pancake recipe)

June 6, 2020 by Kathryn Pauline 4 Comments

Black lives matter. People are being killed. And yes, I know this is just a food blog, but I don’t really see the point in talking about anything else right now. We’ve all got to start acknowledging the way that our professional fields, families, and communities are complicit, and we need to show up and do the work to change things, not just this week but always.

The food world is no exception. Countering the injustice in the food writing world is not going to end the indignity, fear, and tragedy so many people face every single day, but we’ve got a lot of work to do.

So keep donating, volunteering, challenging your own biases, and having difficult conversations with people you love. End the abuses of power, stop calling the cops when you don’t need to, and let’s all do the work together. And if you want to be an ally to Black food writers, here are some ideas of things you can do, no matter who you are.

First, some recommendations. Here are a few of my all-time favorite food writers and websites:

  • Butter Be Ready – Quin quite possibly loves lemon even more than I do, which I never thought was possible. She makes the most beautiful cakes and also has a few extremely mouthwatering dinner bakes.
  • Kitchen Butterfly – Ozoz is a food researcher at heart. She investigates and writes the most incredibly detailed pieces on food and culture. Her post about bottom pot blew my mind, and continues to do so every time I re-read it.
  • The Kitchenista Diaries – In addition to blogging, Angela is a private chef, and thank goodness because every single thing she makes is something I want to eat. Like, literally no exceptions.
  • Lets Taco Bout It – Mica and Charlotte are literary nerds, and I love them for it. Their blog has been a really fun way for me to reconnect with literature since leaving grad school.
  • Benjamina Ebuehi – Benji’s book The New Way to Cake is so elegant and lovely, and really appeals to my minimalist sensibilities. It’s all about baking with ease and sophistication, and I learned a ton reading and baking my way through this one.
  • If you want even more suggestions (obviously this list is just the tiniest tip of the iceberg), Equity at the Table is a great resource. Samin Nosrat also has a wonderful list going on instagram.

And next, here are some action items, some things you can do with all the great lists out there right now, no matter where you fit into the food writing world:

  • Readers: Bet you didn’t think you were a part of the food writing world. But you’re here, reading this blog, and that makes you a member of our food writing community (welcome!). And you’re listed first because you’re without a doubt the most influential (everyone else is listed in no particular order). Here’s what you can do to help make the food writing world more equitable: Seek out Black food writers and support their work. Buy their cookbooks, share their articles, like and comment on their photos, recommend them to your friends when they ask for ideas of new recipes. Challenge your own assumptions about race, and engage with their work meaningfully. You have so much power to change the way food writing works.
  • Conference organizers: Be inclusive in who you invite to lead a panel or give a talk—take a hard look at who you are inviting (are you including enough Black speakers? If not, then what steps do you need to take to change that at the next available opportunity?). Familiarize yourself with the incredible work of Black writers, photographers, stylists, and recipe developers, so that when it comes time to decide on guests, you have many amazing people to invite. Don’t tokenize your speakers, and don’t only invite Black speakers to speak exclusively about diversity and inclusion. Make sure your conference is a truly inclusive space, and seek out resources if you’re unsure how to do so. And don’t forget to always pay your speakers for their time in money, not in experience. If you don’t pay your speakers, know that you’ll be excluding anyone who can’t afford to work for free (even if that wasn’t your intention).
  • Instagram food account curators: You have introduced so many of us to our favorite bloggers and writers, and we love you for it. But it’s important to make sure you’re not perpetuating inequality by promoting mostly white-owned accounts. Do a quick audit of your posts: Are you posting content mostly from white bloggers? Are you posting content from a decent number of POC bloggers, but very few Black bloggers? Ask yourself these questions, set goals, and make changes. Everyone is currently sharing their favorite Black-owned instagram accounts, so this is a good time to find some new people to feature. Let this week be a springboard, and keep it up.
  • Food bloggers: Befriend Black bloggers and introduce them to other bloggers in your circle. Once we’re all eventually back to safely socializing, invite them to blogger gatherings and networking events, even the super casual non-events like grabbing a quick lunch or coffee to catch up with a few blogger friends. Call out/in any racist behavior and work to make blogger communities truly inclusive spaces. Do follow Fridays that prioritize inclusivity, and don’t tokenize. “Turn your performative wokeness into true allyship.” Support each other and share resources. Engage meaningfully with the work of Black food bloggers. Adapt and credit recipes with permission. Collaborate thoughtfully.
  • Editors: It’s a beautiful thing when editors share stories that might otherwise never be heard. Hire inclusively, and commit yourself to featuring more stories told by writers of color.

Above all else, remember that being an ally doesn’t work like a checklist. It’s not a level you can unlock or a thing you can finish achieving. And this particular list is by no means exhaustive, even with regards to the food writing world. The thing is, checklists feel great, but we need to stop doing things to make ourselves feel better, and start doing things to actually change the world around us.

Thanks for reading, hope you found something useful, and hope you enjoy this (total non sequitur) recipe for cherry chocolate sumac skillet pancake (similar to clafoutis). I can’t have someone over and not serve them food, and it’s the same deal here. Stay safe, stay healthy, and keep making the world around you a little better than it was yesterday.

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cherry chocolate sumac skillet pancake recipe

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  • Prep Time: 20 minutes
  • Cook Time: 40 minutes
  • Total Time: 60 minutes

Ingredients

  • 250g frozen cherries (about 2 cups)
  • 40g sugar (3 tablespoons)
  • 2 teaspoons sumac, plus more for sprinkling
  • 80g flour (about 2/3 cup)
  • 65g granulated sugar (1/3 cup)
  • 3g salt (1/2 teaspoon)
  • 3 large eggs (170g)
  • 30g (2 tablespoons) melted butter
  • 235g (1 cup) buttermilk (or regular milk mixed with a spoonful of yogurt)
  • 15g cold butter (1 tablespoon)
  • 15g brown sugar (1 tablespoon)
  • 75g chocolate buttons or chips (1/2 cup), plus more for melting and drizzling

Instructions

  1. Combine the cherries, sugar, and sumac, and let them sit and macerate for at least 40 minutes. Once they’ve collected lots of juices, place in a colander and strain the syrup away. Save the syrup to pour on top of the pancake later. Set aside while you make the batter.
  2. Preheat the oven to 475°F (245°C).
  3. Whisk together the flour, sugar, salt, eggs, and butter. Once well combined, stir in the buttermilk until smooth. Set aside.
  4. Place the cold butter in an ovenproof skillet and place over medium heat. Once it’s melted, add the brown sugar, stir, and let it sit. As soon as it starts smoking a little, pour in the batter, followed by the macerated cherries, chocolate buttons/chips, and another pinch of sumac. Move right to the oven.
  5. Bake for about 18 minutes, just until it’s set throughout and puffy around the edges. The texture should be custardy, like a clafoutis. Serve right out of the skillet with a little extra chocolate and some of the cherry juices.

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Filed Under: breakfast, every recipe Tagged With: cherries, sumac

Vegan Crêpes

May 1, 2020 by Kathryn Pauline Leave a Comment

vegan crêpes with figs and tahini

These light, delicate vegan crêpes come together without eggs or dairy, but you won’t miss either. The best part? They’re made entirely with staples you likely have on hand. Olive oil takes the place of butter, while soy milk steps in for both milk and eggs. And instead of topping them with whipped cream, you’ll whip up a silky one-ingredient tahini cream that’s rich, nutty, and perfect for drizzling.

vegan crêpes with figs and tahini

A recipe for successful vegan crêpes

1. Let them cook fully before flipping

Like, let them cook a bit longer than you normally would with conventional crêpes. Without eggs, they’re a bit more delicate and they need a bit longer to set.

2. Don’t make them too large

Relatedly, don’t make them too large. They’re much easier to flip when they’re on the smaller side.

The easiest way to flip these is with a large spatula. If you make your vegan crêpes too large, they will tear from their weight. So if you make them too large, you might want to use the technique of sliding the crepe onto a lightweight cutting board, and then flipping it back onto the pan.

3. Make sure your batter is smooth and fully blended

Whether you’re using a blender or mixing with the one-bowl technique described in the next section, make sure your batter is completely smooth. This isn’t like making muffins, where you want to avoid over-mixing the batter. In this case, it’s actually good to develop a little gluten. This will give these vegan crêpes that classic chewy-tender texture.

vegan crêpes with figs and tahini
vegan crêpes with figs and tahini

How to get away with not using a blender

You can make this recipe for vegan crêpes with a blender, but if you don’t have one, don’t sweat it! I’ve made this recipe in many-an-airbnb with no blender in sight. All you’ll need is a whisk and a bowl.

The key to making these without a blender is to add the liquid in stages rather than all at once. Whisk until completely smooth before adding the next addition of soy milk.

I’m including my video for classic crêpes here, even though it has different ingredients, because the technique is exactly the same:

(If video does not appear below, please disable ad block)

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Vegan Crêpes

vegan crêpes with figs and tahini
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  • Total Time: 30 minutes
  • Yield: 12 to 15 crepes

Ingredients

  • 1 1/4 cups flour (200g)
  • 2 tablespoons sugar  (25g)
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt (1.5g)
  • 1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract (1g)
  • 2 1/2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil (33g)
  • 2 1/2 cups soy milk (590g)
  • Neutral oil for coating the pan (canola, vegetable, etc.)

Serving inspiration:
Tahini cream: equal parts tahini and water (measured by volume, e.g., 1/4 cup of each), whisked together until smooth and creamy
Date molasses (or grape molasses or honey)
Bananas, sliced
Figs, sliced

Instructions

  1. Whisk together the flour, sugar, and salt in a medium mixing bowl.
  2. Add the vanilla, olive oil, and just 1 cup of the milk*. Whisk together until it’s completely smooth.
  3. Add 1 cup more of the milk, and whisk together until well combined. Repeat with the final 1/2 cup.
  4. Place a non-stick skillet over medium to medium-high heat, and let it pre-heat for a couple minutes.
  5. Dip a paper towel in oil, and use tongs to swipe it across the pan, coating it evenly and lightly. Or use cooking spray to evenly spray the pan with a layer of oil.
  6. Pour about 1/4 – 1/3 cup of batter (more or less, depending on the size of your pan) into the oiled pan, and quickly tilt the pan around to coat the surface evenly. Let it cook for about 2 minutes, then flip and cook for 30 more seconds.**
  7. Remove finished crepes to a plate, and continue cooking the rest of the batter. Serve immediately, or cover and refrigerate for a few days (reheat in the same pan for about 30 seconds on each side, or microwave briefly).

Notes

* You can use a blender for this recipe. If you do, just add all the milk at once and blend until completely smooth.

** These vegan crepes are more delicate than classic eggy crepes, so make sure they cook all the way through on the first side before you flip them. Also, the thicker you make them, the harder they are to flip without tearing (totally counterintuitive, but true). If you ever have trouble flipping crepes, make them smaller, so they’re easier to manage.

The best thing to do is make them on the small side, let them cook through, use a big spatula to gently peel them up, and carefully flip them over with the spatula. Or toss them in the air if you can swing it!

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Filed Under: breakfast, dairy free, every recipe, sweets, vegan, weeknight Tagged With: banana, figs, tahini

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